Tasting down from 2013 to 2004 and then back up again through the years, you can feel them homing in on the potential of the raw material, making decisions (changing the balance of the clones used, reducing the toastiness of the oak, and now also including more grape stems in the ferment) that pull the wine into better shape, so it hangs like the folds of a heavy damask curtain, and smells like the scent of very ripe, dark raspberries when tropically-fat drops of rain are falling at dusk. Berry Bros & Rudd have the 2011 for £27.95.
Weighty and rich, with toasted-nut overtones and a long, crisp finish. Editor's Choice. 92/100