The boys at Dog Point have made a beautifully resolved pinot here, offering handsomely ripe cherry fruit and oak that adds plenty but doesn’t intrude. The savory spice and sweetly meaty notes are alluring. The palate has plenty of supple flesh at its core, with fine, sweeping tannins that brush through smoothly and a freshness that drives the finish. Concentrated and elegant. Drink now.
Tasting down from 2013 to 2004 and then back up again through the years, you can feel them homing in on the potential of the raw material, making decisions (changing the balance of the clones used, reducing the toastiness of the oak, and now also including more grape stems in the ferment) that pull the wine into better shape, so it hangs like the folds of a heavy damask curtain, and smells like the scent of very ripe, dark raspberries when tropically-fat drops of rain are falling at dusk. Berry Bros & Rudd have the 2011 for £27.95.